Cultivating junipers, gardeners try to create conditions as close to natural as possible. But even with the best care, it is not always possible to achieve high decorativeness - the bushes can turn yellow, dry out or crumble, often this happens after winter. The main reasons for this phenomenon and methods of treatment.
Juniper turned yellow after winter: causes and treatment
Features of the variety and ecology
Almost all varieties of juniper are green or emerald green.
Once every 4 years, the needles massively turn yellow and fall off the tree - this is a natural process of replacing old needles with new ones.
But there are also negative reasons associated with mistakes in agricultural technology.
Each season has its own characteristics. Let's consider everything in order.
In the spring
The main factor affecting the yellowing of juniper needles in spring is sunburn.
Therefore, in March and April, it should be covered with burlap or a thin layer of gauze, especially at midday when the sun is active.
Summer
In dry and hot weather, combined with strong winds, the ephedra suffers from a lack of moisture, as a result, it changes color and dries out.
Another reason is too cold and rainy summer. In this case, the shrubs not only turn yellow, but also begin to rot and be damaged by various fungal diseases.
In autumn
The peak of decorativeness occurs in the autumn, when the color of the needles becomes more saturated. However, the color change still occurs due to the synthesis of anthocyanins (specific wax-like substances) that protect the crown from UV rays.
The color range of plants can be very diverse - from red to burgundy or dark purple.
In combination with green needles, a yellowish or golden brown tint is formed.
In winter
Shrubs turn yellow in winter or after winter for the same reason as in autumn.
Other factors are freezing of shoots from severe frosts, injury to branches under the weight of icy snow.
Improper care
There are several reasons why juniper turns yellow and dries in the country.
1. The soil or the place did not fit.
It is necessary to focus on the natural growth conditions - in nature, the shrub can be found in pine, deciduous forests, along the edge of roads or on the edges.
A shaded area with good drainage and slightly acidic soil is best.
2. Incorrect pick-up dates and times.
It is better to plant in late April or early May.
For autumn planting - mid-September or early October.
It is not recommended to plant in summer, in extreme heat - the plant is unlikely to take root, it will quickly turn yellow and dry out.
3. The tree was brought from the forest.
Trees from the forest have a poor survival rate after transplantation.
In ordinary garden soil, they turn yellow, dry and die.
For cultivation, it is better to go to a specialized nursery for seedlings. Purchased junipers tolerate transplanting well, root successfully and do not require special care, unlike forest varieties.
In addition, digging is punishable by law.
Pests
Various diseases can spoil the tree
One of the most common causes of juniper yellowing is pest damage. The ephedra has several inveterate enemies.
Aphid
When this insect appears, the growth of the tree stops, the needles and young growth curl and turn yellow.
The precursors of these pests are ants, they protect parasites and create an ideal environment for aphid infestation.
At an early stage of infection, you can use a solution - 40 g of laundry or liquid soap per bucket of water.
Before irrigation, the soil around the trunk is covered with a film. The procedure is carried out three times with an interval of 7 days.
With an advanced form, insecticides are used - Actarophyte, Fundazol or Actellik.
Shield
Another harmful parasite that in a short time is able to completely destroy the bush.
If the needles turn yellow and dry, this is a clear sign of the appearance of this insect. You can notice rounded larvae in the form of red-colored plaques on needles, young growth, and kidneys.
Sucking the juice from young organs, they lead to a change in the color of the bark and needles to a brownish or reddish color.
In case of minor damage to pests, it is enough to carefully clean it with a knife. At an advanced stage, Aktara, Fufanon, Decis or Actellik are used.
For prevention purposes, trapping belts made of straw or burlap, treated with caterpillar glue, are put on the shoots and the central guide.
Spider mite
The change from the green color of the needles to yellow-green or reddish can be caused by the appearance of a spider mite. This insect envelops all organs of the ephedra, which leads to their massive yellowing, darkening to a brown tint and shedding.
Frequent sprinkling on hot days, loosening the soil, and timely watering will help prevent an invasion.
If found, it will be necessary to spray with infusion of dandelion, garlic or colloidal sulfur. An advanced form of infection is treated with acaricides - Aktellik, Aktara.
Gall midges
For junipers, this small parasite does not pose any danger, but its brightly colored larvae love to feast on young shoots, needles and buds.
They cause cracking of the bark, the appearance of wounds on the trunk and skeletal branches, and yellowing of the needles. Infection is possible both in spring and autumn.
These pests live in galls - pathologically overgrown cells of conifers.
All infected places are cut out, burned, and the crown and soil around the central conductor are sprayed with insecticides (Aktellik or Aktara).
Pine moth
If you notice purple butterflies over the conifers, this is a signal that the plant needs to be urgently saved, since harmless flying individuals will soon begin to lay eggs.
From them larvae (pine moths) hatch - insects that devour everything in their path.
In the middle of autumn, they go into the soil, hide under fallen leaves in order to successfully endure wintering. In early spring, they crawl out again and start eating the buds and young growth.
For treatment, enteric-contact insecticides are used - irrigated twice with an interval of 5 days. Additionally, in the fall, they carry out a digging of the site. The same drugs are taken for preventive treatment in the spring.
Juniper sawfly
It feeds on shoots and needles, as a result of which the juniper looks like burnt.
To protect the needles, it is necessary to spray with Karbofos in spring and autumn.
This remedy is also effective in treatment - they carry out a thorough treatment inside the crown, and the soil under it. Irrigate twice at weekly intervals.
Shoot moth
The pest got its name due to the fact that it eats away young shoots on conifers.
The affected shrub stops growing, looks faded, and its needles take on a yellow-golden color.
Insecticides with the addition of mineral oils help in the fight.
All sucking and gnawing insects primarily damage weakened and young plants, therefore it is so important to water them, fertilize them on time, and regularly take preventive measures, inspect them for damage.
When planting, it is necessary to use light, loose and fertile soil with a neutral level of acidity.
Diseases
Schütte
Junipers are susceptible to various diseases
Signs of the appearance of a fungal infection are a change in the green color of the needles to a yellow-orange or brownish tint. At an advanced stage, they die off and crumble. The peak of development occurs at the beginning of summer.
Susceptible to varieties growing on waterlogged soil or weak plants that suffer from a lack of nutrients and moisture.
First, numerous spores of a black or brown tone appear on the shoots and needles, then they cover the entire affected part.
The treatment is as follows - they destroy all yellowed and dried out parts, collect the needles under the crown, carry out a three-time treatment with the drug Tilt, Ridomil Gold, Strobi or Skor. The same means carry out prevention in spring and autumn.
Rust
This disease affects both vertical and horizontal (ground cover) shrubs.
The causative agent is a fungus that manifests itself in the form of orange or red growths on the surface of the trunk, shoots.
The infection is spreading rapidly, so at the first sign, urgent action is needed. The crown and soil in the near-trunk zone are treated with fungicides with a solution of copper sulfate or a Bordeaux mixture.
Launched instances are removed and burned.
To avoid re-infection, mineral fertilizers with immunostimulants are applied.
Shrinking branches
The juniper dries with its tips at the top of the crown, then yellowing and drying of all the shoots occurs - a clear sign of a fungal infection.
An infected specimen not only loses its decorative qualities, but also quickly dies.
The needles acquire a yellow-golden hue, crumble.
On a sick bush, all damaged organs are removed, after which they are sprayed with fungicides - Ridomil Gold, Skor or Strobi.
Additionally, the cut off places are treated with a solution of copper sulfate.
Also, these pesticides are used for preventive purposes - in early spring before the blooming of vegetative buds and in autumn at the beginning of October.
Biotorella cancer
The causative agent of the disease is a fungus that predominantly parasitizes on the bark.
In case of mechanical damage to the bush, the infection rapidly spreads to other parts and contributes to the yellowing of the needles. At an advanced stage, the branches dry out, the bark cracks, the ephedra dies.
With a strong infection, it is unlikely that it will be possible to reanimate the bush, so it is removed from the site and burned. At the initial stage, the crown and the near-stem zone are treated with Bayleton, Skor, Vectra or Tilt.
For preventive purposes, double irrigation of the bush with Oxyhom, copper sulfate solution, Bordeaux mixture or Fitosporin is required.
Bark necrosis
The yellowing of junipers after winter can be caused by necrosis.
Signs - the appearance of cushion-shaped growths of a red or brick color. Over time, the entire crown turns yellow.
At an advanced stage, the infection affects the root system, as a result of which the plant dies.
The affected organs are cut off, burned, then the crown and the soil under it are irrigated with Fitosporin.
For preventive purposes, it is necessary to carry out three-fold processing of the aerial part in spring, summer and autumn with Fundazol.
Fusarium
The defeat begins from the underground part - the fungus clogs all cells, blocking access to food, moisture and oxygen, as a result of which the shoots and needles turn yellow, dry out and crumble.
The development of the sore is triggered by two factors - poor lighting or excessive humidity.
For prevention, high-quality and healthy planting material is used, infected specimens are removed in time, the soil is impregnated with Fitosporin before planting.
Additionally, in the spring and autumn, you need to treat the bushes with chemicals - Vitarox or Baktofit.
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Preventive measures
Following simple rules, it will turn out to protect the conifers, keeping them healthy and beautiful.
- Use for planting strong seedlings with a closed root system, without signs of infection;
- Observe the timing and time of disembarkation, as well as the scheme, in order to avoid further thickening, the appearance of various sores and pests;
- Regularly inspect for contamination, remove contaminated organs in time and carry out annual treatment with the necessary means;
- Balanced nutrition, regular hydration, sun protection and a sanitary haircut are the main conditions for the successful growth and decorativeness of juniper;
- Good shelter and insulation for the winter will protect the bushes from freezing, yellowing and drying out in the winter season.
Gardener's recommendations
Practical advice from experienced summer residents will help prevent yellowing of the needles and quickly eliminate the problem.
- If the tips turn yellow, while there are no signs of disease and pests, it is necessary to process the crown with Epin's solution with the addition of Zircon. One ampoule of each drug is dissolved in 5 liters of water. Irrigate several times at intervals of 4-5 days.
- If purchased seedlings are in doubt, then before planting they should be treated with one of the dressing agents - Quadris, Fitosporin or Maxim.
- Planting a plant in a gas-polluted place is unacceptable. Such an instance needs to be urgently transplanted to an area with cleaner air.
- After each watering, the near-trunk zone is mulched with peat or pine chips.
- For the best effect, all prophylactic and therapeutic treatments are best done in dry, calm and cloudy weather. This eliminates the risk of scalding.
- The likelihood of infestation by sores and pests increases when planting on heavy, acidic and alkalized soil, so try to carefully prepare the site - add drainage from sand, screening or vermiculite. If deoxidation is necessary, the soil is sprinkled with dolomite flour, calcite or slaked lime.
- In case of yellowing of the needles, it is necessary to carry out repeated processing of the crown and soil with appropriate pesticides.
- Juniper, which has turned yellow and is almost dry, must be urgently removed from the site and burned to prevent the spread of infection. Plentifully shed its habitat with a solution of copper sulfate.